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Ice Climbing
in Ala-Archa
in Ala-Archa
Climb alpine ice
in one of the best technical mountaineering areas
in Central Asia
in one of the best technical mountaineering areas
in Central Asia
Ice Climbing in Ala-Archa
Climb alpine ice in one of the best technical mountaineering areas
in Central Asia
in Central Asia
About the program
During the program, you will learn how to climb ice efficiently and safely. The program is customized based on your experience, the routes you plan to climb and the time available.
If needed, we start with the basics of ice climbing: using crampons and ice tools, setting ice screws and making Abalakov threads for descending from ice routes.
If you already have ice climbing experience, we can skip the introductory part and move on to more challenging routes. In Ala-Archa, there are options for climbers of different levels.
If needed, we start with the basics of ice climbing: using crampons and ice tools, setting ice screws and making Abalakov threads for descending from ice routes.
If you already have ice climbing experience, we can skip the introductory part and move on to more challenging routes. In Ala-Archa, there are options for climbers of different levels.
- DatesSeptember to March
Upon request - DurationUpon request
- LocationAla-Archa, Kyrgyzstan
- CostUpon request
-
DatesSeptember to March
Upon request -
DurationUpon request -
LocationAla-Archa, Kyrgyzstan -
CostUpon request
Ala-Archa
Ala-Archa is one of the best places for alpine ice climbing and technical mountaineering in Central Asia. It is a legendary mountain area in Kyrgyzstan.
There are dozens of routes here, ranging from easier routes suitable for beginners to challenging big walls. Most routes here are mixed, but there are also pure rock and ice routes.
Free Korea, Korona, Semenov-Tien-Shansky, Baychechekey, Box and other peaks form the Ak-Sai gorge. The area includes famous routes from Low and Barber to Korea and many others.
Altitudes up to 4,800 meters require a short period of acclimatization. This makes many routes accessible within a well-structured short to medium-length program.
Here you can climb all year round:
On mixed routes from September to March
On rock routes from May to the end of September
On ice routes from September to March
Guidebook of Alpine Routes in Ala-Archa
There are dozens of routes here, ranging from easier routes suitable for beginners to challenging big walls. Most routes here are mixed, but there are also pure rock and ice routes.
Free Korea, Korona, Semenov-Tien-Shansky, Baychechekey, Box and other peaks form the Ak-Sai gorge. The area includes famous routes from Low and Barber to Korea and many others.
Altitudes up to 4,800 meters require a short period of acclimatization. This makes many routes accessible within a well-structured short to medium-length program.
Here you can climb all year round:
On mixed routes from September to March
On rock routes from May to the end of September
On ice routes from September to March
Guidebook of Alpine Routes in Ala-Archa
Details
The cost of the program depends on the difficulty of the routes, the length of the trip and the number of participants. We can provide an accurate quote once we know more about your specific requirements.
Please check the booking and payment terms
What's included:
Not included:
Please check the booking and payment terms
What's included:
- English-speaking instructor
- Round-trip transfer from Bishkek
- National park fee
- Accommodation in a shared room at the Ratzek Hut. It is possible to stay in a six-bed room for an extra fee
- Meals at Razek hut — full board
Not included:
- Accommodation in Bishkek before or after the program
- Porters. If necessary, porters can be arranged from the parking lot to the Razek Hut
- Rescue / travel insurance
- Personal gear (see gear list)
The program is customized based on your experience, the routes you are going to climb, and the time available.
8-day program for intermediate climbers, featuring three classic winter routes in Ala-Archa:
More challenging 12-day program, featuring the Barber route on Svobodnaya Korea:
8-day program for intermediate climbers, featuring three classic winter routes in Ala-Archa:
- Day 1 — Meet in Bishkek, drive to Ala-Archa, hike to Razek Hut (around 4-6 hours)
- Day 2 — Training on a glacier
- Day 3 — Climb Akimov route on "Korona Fence" (300m of 50° ice)
- Day 4 — Rest day
- Day 5 — Climb Plotnikov route on "Korona Fence" (500m of 50° ice)
- Day 6 — Rest day
- Day 7 — Climb the "River" route to "Baychechekey" (550m up to 80° at the crux)
- Day 8 — Return to Bishkek
More challenging 12-day program, featuring the Barber route on Svobodnaya Korea:
- Day 1 — Meet in Bishkek, drive to Ala-Archa, Hike to Razek Hut (around 4-6 hours)
- Day 2 — Training on a glacier
- Day 3 — Climb Akimov route on "Korona Fence" (300m of 50° ice)
- Day 4 — Climb the "River" route to "Baychechekey" (550m up to 80° at the crux)
- Day 5 — Rest day
- Day 6 — Climb Plotnikov route on "Korona Fence" (500m of 50° ice), coming back to Bishkek
- Day 7 — Rest day in the city
- Day 8 — Rest day in the city
- Day 9 — Drive to Ala-Archa, hike to Korona Hut
- Day 10 — Climb "Barber" route on "Svobodnaya Korea" (900m of ice up to 80° and some rocks)
- Day 11 — Return to Bishkek
- Day 12 — Reserve day
Personal gear
Clothing
Temperatures can easily drop to -30°C. Please keep this in mind.
If you do not have all the necessary equipment, we can provide rental gear
- Harness
- Helmet
- Belay device
- 3 locking carabiners
- Ice tools
- Lanyard for ice tools
- Carytool – 2
- Crampons (automatic or semi-automatic crampons for ice climbing)
- Backpack
- Headlamp
- Trekking poles (if you use them)
- Thermos, 0.7–1 L
- Sunglasses
Group gear (for 2 climbers)
- Dynamic ropes (half or twin) — 2 × 60 m
- 6 mm cord – 5 m
- Ice screws – 14
- Quickdraws – 10
- Open loop slings — 2 × 120 cm
- Locking carabiners – 2
- Non-locking carabiners – 4
- V-thread hook
Clothing
Temperatures can easily drop to -30°C. Please keep this in mind.
- Double boots compatible with automatic ice crampons
- Base layer
- Mid-layer insulated jacket
- Windproof insulated jacket
- Down jacket
- Softshell pants
- Full-zip insulated pants
- Gloves for climbing
- Mittens
- Hat
- Buff
- Warm socks
- Sleeping bag
If you do not have all the necessary equipment, we can provide rental gear
The program is not recommended for total beginners. To participate, you should have some experience in mountaineering and be familiar with basic climbing skills.
Ala-Archa in winter can be a challenging place to learn mountaineering basics. While previous ice climbing experience can be beneficial, it is not required. In any case, the program will be customized to your level of experience and goals.
To participate, you must be in good physical shape and have the motivation to climb in difficult weather conditions.
Ala-Archa in winter can be a challenging place to learn mountaineering basics. While previous ice climbing experience can be beneficial, it is not required. In any case, the program will be customized to your level of experience and goals.
To participate, you must be in good physical shape and have the motivation to climb in difficult weather conditions.
Testimonials
- Carson ThomasThis was my second trip with Kostya, and like the first trip, it was challenging, enjoyable, and educational. I have been wanting to develop my alpine ice climbing skills for a long time, and I was able to do exactly that under Kostya's expert eye. We practiced climbing a long alpine route as a party of three (with Egor, who was a terrific partner). And then I got to focus on efficient movement in a team of two for the last route. Overall, the trip was exactly what I was hoping for, and I feel much more ready to take on bigger climbs in the future. I already hope to come back for the Barber route on Free Korea!
- This was my second trip with Kostya, and like the first trip, it was challenging, enjoyable, and educational. I have been wanting to develop my alpine ice climbing skills for a long time, and I was able to do exactly that under Kostya's expert eye. We practiced climbing a long alpine route as a party of three (with Egor, who was a terrific partner). And then I got to focus on efficient movement in a team of two for the last route. Overall, the trip was exactly what I was hoping for, and I feel much more ready to take on bigger climbs in the future. I already hope to come back for the Barber route on Free Korea!Carson Thomas
- Egor KniazevSolid ice climbing program in Ala-Archa — intense, well-structured, and a great opportunity to grow as a climber. The Plotnikov route we did first pushed my limits with acclimatization, but I still managed to lead a few pitches and felt clear progress. The Akimov route was a standout — clean, confident send with zero struggle. Credit to the guide Kostya and teammate Carson for creating a supportive and motivating vibe throughout the trip.
- Solid ice climbing program in Ala-Archa — intense, well-structured, and a great opportunity to grow as a climber. The Plotnikov route we did first pushed my limits with acclimatization, but I still managed to lead a few pitches and felt clear progress. The Akimov route was a standout — clean, confident send with zero struggle. Credit to the guide Kostya and teammate Carson for creating a supportive and motivating vibe throughout the trip.Egor Kniazev
- Mikhail AlekseevOn my way to Ala Archa I didn't expect much because I wasn't sure about my fitness and ice climbing skills. But moving from easy to harder routes Kostya and I got to the summit of Free Korea peak finishing Barber route. After that trip and amount of climbed ice I feel much more confident even on a very steep ice and waterfalls.
- On my way to Ala Archa I didn't expect much because I wasn't sure about my fitness and ice climbing skills. But moving from easy to harder routes Kostya and I got to the summit of Free Korea peak finishing Barber route. After that trip and amount of climbed ice I feel much more confident even on a very steep ice and waterfalls.Mikhail Alekseev